![]() ![]() I have used LA on my Prusa's since around the time it was available and it is a game changer, especially for large flat prints like roofs or larger structures. To nerd out on the physics of the subject, take a read through this Matt's Hubb article. 15 layer height for the great detail but there are places further up in the print where you do.Īvailable in Firmwares for Marlin based FW machines, the basics of LA are that it allows for faster, sharper printing. There will always be places in prints and objects where you dont need a. I will Spray filler primer, sand, assess surface quality and if needed repeat the process. Filler Primer from spray can / Bondo / Drywall Texture / Sanding are all options. 3 take medium to more ( :) ) prep time due to the lower quality of the surfaces. Top Layers = 5-7 (You may start to get ugly surface quality so watch and adjust. Infill % = 5% infill, You can drop down here a bit if you keep 2 perimeters above. ![]() Perimeters = 1-2 Perimeters - I haven’t found significant time savings going from 1-2 perimeters and would keep 2 for resilience. 2 take minimum to medium prep time due to higher quality of the surfaces. Infill % = I print at 7% infill, I make up for the top surface layer quality with additional top layers (6-7) because I know I can print infill faster with a rectangular or cubic pattern and internal strength is still very good at 7% Perimeters = 2 Perimeters - Good surface quality and resilience with strong bonding Once you feel your basic calibration is good to go, make sure you tune your extruder for the best results.ĬR10 Extruder Calibration Videos on Youtube ![]()
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